Session 2: K40 Xtreeem Laser Cutter; Changing The Controller

K40 Xtreeem Laser Cutter Upgrade Series

Welcome to Session 2 of the all new K40 Xtreeem Laser Cutter Upgrade Series with Russ Sadler. In this Session, Russ rips out the original controller and pretty much all of the electrical circuit. He then fits a new Ruida controller, repositions the milliammeter, adds new stepper drivers and a new DC power supply.

Release Date: 16th May 2022

Over the last 6 years, Russ has built up a formidable YouTube following for his RDWorks Learning Lab series which currently has over 200 videos.

The original RDWorks Learning Lab series on his “Sarbar Multimedia” YouTube Channel, follows Russ as he tries to make sense of his new Chinese laser machine and to sort out the truths, half truths and outright misleading information that is available on the web.

Six years later with over 4.5 million YouTube Views under his belt, Russ has become the go to resource for everything related to the Chinese CO2 laser machine user or wannabe user.

K40 Laser Xtreeem Changing the controller
K40 Laser Xtreeem: Changing the controller

In this new series, Russ has condensed his knowledge and experience of the last 6 years to provide valuable information and insights into his total remodelling of the K40 Xtreeem Laser cutter machine. Making it into a powerful, compact laser cutting and engraving solution for those on a budget.

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Session 2: K40 Xtreeem Laser Cutter – Changing The Controller

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Session 2: K40 Xtreeem Laser Cutter – Changing The Controller

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Session 2 – K40 Xtreeem Laser Cutter – Changing The Controller

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Transcript for K40 Xtreeem Laser Cutter – Changing The Controller

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The K40 Xtreeem Laser Cutter Upgrade series with Russ Sadler.

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Session Two: Changing the Controller. Well, welcome to this part two of remodelling the K40, we’ve basically done all the mechanical stuff in part one.

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And yeah, it’s this is all up and running and we’re all ready to.

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This is all nicely fitted in its nice and slide-able, as you can see, so that we can adjust it backwards and forwards when we come to set the mirrors up.

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Let’s get stuck into….. some rewiring.

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Well, it’s a little bit more than rewiring. We’re going to have to start from square one and basically redo the control system on this machine.

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Now I’ve got a basic kit of parts here supplied by CloudRay, you can buy this kit on Cloudray, as a kit.

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Which comes with a RDC6432, I believe it is, yeah, 6432 controller,

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a power supply for supplying the power to the stepper motors and the controller.

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And we’ve got a couple of little proper stepper drivers here. Now in the first instance,

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I’m going to use the existing stepper motors that are in this machine and we’re going

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to see how it performs. Just spin this round so that we can get to this bit here,

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which is the bit we want to play with. One of the things that we’re going to have to do is to change this.

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We’ve got to fit this on here. I think the sensible thing to do would be to just cut a new, a new panel to go in here, which because as you can see,

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we’ve got an ammeter to go in here as well as this and there just is not enough room to put all this stuff in here.

Transcript for K40 Xtreeem Laser Cutter – Changing The Controller (Cont…)

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There isn’t a lot in here, there’s a lot of space, so we’re not going to have any problem fitting these two items here.

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Inside here. Now, I think we should probably be able to use this existing power supply.

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Well I hope so anyway. It’s a 35 watt unit, which probably means it’s capable of delivering something like in excess of maybe 20 milliamps,

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which will be perfectly okay for running this 40 to 45 watt tube that we’ve got in here. Now

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I think the tube is pretty new. And it’s a CloudRay tube, which means it’s a nice A-grade quality tube.

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So I’m expecting some great things from this tube. You don’t need to be an electronics expert to rewire this machine.

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I certainly am nothing like that, but I’m not frightened of it because, hey, we’ve got drawings which tell us where the wires go.

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Well, I haven’t got to get any tools out because all these nuts here, they’re loose.

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So just for convenience, we will take this lid off so that it doesn’t get in the way.

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I’m not sure how many of these whys we need, but we’ll sort that out later.

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So I think we should just unwind all of this spiral wrap.

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So let’s remove this bird’s nest of wires, already to sort it out.

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I’m going to give you a very basic circuit diagram to explain how few wires we actually need.

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There looks to be thousands of wires here, but there isn’t in reality! What we’ve got,

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we got a controller. Let’s, let’s say along this side, and this isn’t the way that it really works.

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We’ve got “ins” and we’ve got “outs”. Two of the wires that come in here, are from a micro switch, and that’s the x axis micro switch.

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There’s another two wires that come in here, and that’s the. Y axis micro switch.

Transcript for K40 Xtreeem Laser Cutter – Changing The Controller (Cont…)

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So there’s your 0,0. So that accounts for four wires.

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Here we’ve got a PSU, a power supply unit. It says it’s 150 watts, 24 volts.

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Okay. And here we’ve got our mains in. So we’ve got three wires in which are from the mains.

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One of them being obviously the Earth wire and then coming out of here we’ve got,

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plus and minus 24 volts, DC, nothing dangerous.

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You’re not going to get killed with this stuff. That 24 votes DC goes to

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either drive. this box, and we’re going to use that same 24 volts to drive these two little boxes.

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Look, V+ / V-, so that’s it. 24 volts.

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Looks like lots of wires, but it’s actually only two wires which go to the same positions on each one of those. 24 volts, 24 volts, plus and minus.

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Okay. And it’s clearly marked on here, plus and minus. So you can’t get that wrong.

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You can’t get this wrong, either. This one says here power 24 volts and ground, so everything is pretty simple

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so far. We’ve got an X and a Y stepper motor. Now coming out of those stepper motors, we’ve got one two three four wires, one two three four wires.

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If you go to the Cloudray website and look at the stepper motors, you’ll see that it clearly tells you what the wire colors are; red,

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blue, green and black for A-plus, A-minus, B-plus B-minus.

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And that’s what those four lines are here. So.

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A-plus, A-minus, B-plus, B-minus.

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And they’re not in that order. But that’s all there is. There’s only those wires that come out of the stepper motor.

Transcript for K40 Xtreeem Laser Cutter – Changing The Controller (Cont…)

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Now those wires, I’m not going to I’m not going to do it completely.

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I’ll just draw them as one line. Going into there on one line going into there, there’s actually four ways that connect into here because look,

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you can clearly see on here it says A-plus, A- minus, B-plus, B-minus.

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So no rocket science so far is there. And then we’ve got these things here called signal wires.

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Well, these signal wires, are the wires that are coming from the controller.

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And I’ll just draw those in a different color. We’ll put those in red, so these are outs.

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Okay, so these outs, as I said, we’ve got three wires that come out here, one two three, one two three.

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And those three wires and I’ll just draw them as one, go into there and into there.

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So there’s no complexity here, because it clearly shows you what they are.

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And on the controller, it tells you as well.

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Look X- axis, Y-axis, direction, Pulse, +5 volts; direction, Pulse, +5 volts.

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And here it is Direction, Pulse. There is nothing really complicated in this so far.

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It’s just a matter of linking the right bits up to the right bits with a piece of wire.

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And the only other bit that we haven’t tackled at the moment is this bit here, which is the laser tube itself.

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The laser tube is controlled by this thing here called an HV power supply.

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And that’s where we’ve got a great big thick

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red cable that goes to one end of the tube, and then we’ve got a black wire that comes out the other end of the tube.

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Now that black wire that comes out, the other end of the tube passes through an amateur and goes back into the high voltage power supply.

Transcript for K40 Xtreeem Laser Cutter – Changing The Controller (Cont…)

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So if we take a look at the power supply, you’ll see there’s only these two wires, this black and a red wire.

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And then again, what we’ve got coming into here, we’ve got our mains.

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Remember, this is mains. M A I N S – 240 or 110, depending on what system you’re using?

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That mains also goes into here. There’s two wires that aren’t on here at the moment, and I’m going to draw one of them in green.

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Which goes into this power supply, and this is an out from here.

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And that Green Line there controls the percent power,

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into your tube. That allows the tube to put more or less Watts out, because that line is controlling the current flow through the tube.

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And that’s what this ammeter is showing you, the current flow through the tube.

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The only one that’s missing now is this dark blue wire, which again comes out of the controller and goes into the HV power supply.

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And it’s called “L” for “Low”. The green one is called IN.

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And here you’ll find it’s called on this controller. It says, Laser.

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And we’ve got L-on, which is what this blue is, L-on.

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And that’s a switch for switching the laser tube on and off.

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So that’s it. That’s, that’s virtually all of the wiring that’s required for this machine.

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When you break it down into very simple elements like this, there isn’t much wiring. Yeah,

Transcript for K40 Xtreeem Laser Cutter – Changing The Controller (Cont…)

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there looks like a lot of wire, because we’ve got four wires here, 4 wires here, three wires here, three wires here.

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But in reality, it’s just a matter of logically working your way through and joining up all these lumps.

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Not electronics at all. So if anybody was fearful of this rat’s nest of wires that I’ve got here, then I hope I’ve just taken the fear away.

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One step at a time, one element at a time. We’re just going to work our way through this very gently and very gradually.

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The first thing we’re going to do is probably bolt some of the pieces in.

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Not very difficult, but we need to make sure that we bolt.

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I mean, somewhere where we can see them and easily get to them. So, look we’ve got some wires here already.

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It would be very convenient if we didn’t have to… change this loom in any way at all.

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Which hopefully will be red, blue, green and black.

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Red, blue, hmmm, white and yellow.

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Okay, red, green, white and yellow.

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So those are definitely stepper motor wires. And I suspect that these four wires here; white and blue and black and green, if I follow them through,

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I should probably find that those are those colors of the wires that are on the micro switches.

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There is a hole through the side here where these wires originally went through.

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So let’s poke them through there. And we’ve got lots of the spiral wrap here.

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We can take some of this off and see where we can get to. Now this

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Six four three two will be supplied with a bag of cables and all your fittings.

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So we’ve got this cable here. It plugs into there. And plugs into there, so there we go.

Transcript for K40 Xtreeem Laser Cutter – Changing The Controller (Cont…)

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So there’s your connection between the keyboard and there, simple, just one cable.

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All the connectors that you require,

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I’ve already got them fitted in from another unit are in there, along with a couple of special clamps which will clamp the keyboard into the panel.

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OK, we’ll deal with that later. So here you’ve got your Ethernet cables if you want to run it with an Ethernet,

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you can do that. So this here as an extension cable,

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which comes with the panel so that you can plug in your USB stick and there should also be another cable in here.

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Which plugs into this connector here, which is the extension for your PC connection into this box.

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So we’ve got two external connectors to the outside of the frame to plug into.

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There we go. It’s as complicated as that. So all we’ve got to do now is to work out how we’re going to put all these.

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And this power supply into this case so that we don’t have to do any significant rewiring these cables here.

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Having seen that, it’s not going to be a massive job rewiring this.

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I think what we’ll do, first of all, is we’ll take out from here, all the cables that we don’t need.

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So let’s unplug that cable there.

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We don’t need that one. We don’t need that one because we’re going to put our own replacement cables in there.

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The only thing that we’ve got on here is the ground cables and the mains cables. We’ll use that switch

Transcript for K40 Xtreeem Laser Cutter – Changing The Controller (Cont…)

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maybe, maybe. So just leave me for a few minutes to play and I’ll unravel all these cables and we’ll see what we’re left with.

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Okay, so we’ve taken all that tangle of wires out now because we don’t need most of those wires on this high voltage power supply.

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There are some wires that we shall need, and we’ll pull them out of that cable and reuse the wire.

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So we’ve got a red and a green wire, which are coming in from the mains power.

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So this is 240 volts. Okay. And then we’ve got our earth, which is essential. On many power supplies,

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you’ll find that you’ve got the red wire and the black wire coming out the back of the power supply. In this instance,

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we have to put the black wire back into the front here in this terminal.

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So that’s what this end connection is. It’s the return wire from the tube.

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And here we’ve got our return wire from the tube – black.

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And what we’re going to do, we’re going to put in there, that ammeter.

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Okay, we’ll talk about how you decide which way round these wires go,

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when we come to wire that up. So for the moment, we can just push those wires out the way. We’ve got our 2 mains cables.

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We’ve got two mains wires here, push those out the way as well because we don’t need those at the moment.

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We just dangle those out the way. We’ve got our earths,

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which are, well, they’re a bit on the long side. But hey, we can shorten those as required rather than try and stack them back into this,

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into this trunking here, where they just consume a lot of volume unnecessarily.

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So rather than have these wires getting in the way, lets just take that connector out and hang them over the side as well.

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So look, we’ve got a nice, empty case there now. Do we need this piece of trunking in here?

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Hmmm, I’m not sure that we do. That’s a nice piece of wall area along there.

Transcript for K40 Xtreeem Laser Cutter – Changing The Controller (Cont…)

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I think we’ll take this piece of trunking out. So we’ll just put all our connectors on here, because we need to make sure that everything can be plugged in.

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We’ve got our two limit switches on there remember, green and black.

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So it’s very convenient that we put them in there because we can stretch the limit switches onto there.

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OK, those limit switches will pass nicely onto there. So I think that’ll fit quite neatly there.

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But it depends what we’re going to do with this cover because we’ve got to remember that we got this thing that sits on the top here somewhere.

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So we’ve got to allow room for that to sit on top there.

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So, yeah, they might fit in there quite neatly, actually. So somewhere around about there will be very convenient.

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We’ll be able to get access to everything from the top here and we’ll also have our two….

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These two here, there’s enough cable there to go across to that side and to that side to reach these connectors.

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That’ll be fine. Well that’s those fitting in there neatly.

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I can read all the information, we can get to the switches, we can get to the connections.

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It looks as though there’s just two fixing holes on the side there or, Ah,

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what have we’ve got here? Now that might be quite convenient mightn’t? To do it that way around.

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Look, we’ve got, we’ve got M3 fixings on the side here. So on the side here, it says 115 volts, 230 volts.

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Select by switch before turning on, please check input voltage to avoid damage.

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So let’s just do that, to be sure. Well, I’ve taken the cover off now and it was only just one screw underneath here that was fixing the cover on.

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And you can see here there’s this switch, which says 230.

Transcript for K40 Xtreeem Laser Cutter – Changing The Controller (Cont…)

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And if you move it the other way, it says 115. So you can see through the side there that it says 230.

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Which means you don’t need to take the cover off. But it was worth me checking just to be sure, an M3 hole there and a notch here,

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which is great because that means to say that I can put a screw in the back there and hook that on and then a screw through the side here into that one.

155
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So that again, is going to be very convenient for fixing this onto the side.

156
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We’re not worried about the screw this end, because that can be as long as you like.

157
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But this end must not be too long because we’ve got to poke it into this power supply.

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So I’ve got a short M3 screw for the front end. I’m going to use only two fixing holes on here,

159
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and I’m going to open up this top hole here to about 5.6 ~ 5.7 mm diameter so that the screw heads will pass through here.

160
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And that means I can put my two fixing screws in here to start with.

161
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And I should be able to very easily just unplug it and remove this, as and when and if I need to.

162
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Do we want them on the front or do we want them on the side? We’ve got a USB slot at the bottom here already.

163
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It might be a reasonable idea to just stretch that slot a little bit and put both of these next to each other in the same slot.

164
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Well, that’s all the main mechanical bits sorted out inside there.

165
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I don’t think we need these notes on here. Well, we’ve been left with some glue on there, but we can deal with glue.

166
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I think this CE Mark is a bit of a joke, because I don’t think it really has anything to do with the European Union.

Transcript for K40 Xtreeem Laser Cutter – Changing The Controller (Cont…)

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I think it’s really all to do with Chinese Export. To get all this sticky stuff off without damaging the paint.

168
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We’ll use some isopropyl alcohol. If you haven’t got any fingernails.

169
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Then use a wooden spatula or something like that, something that doesn’t damage the paint.

170
00:20:25,610 –> 00:20:32,160
Yeah, we still got a lot stuck on there at the moment. You see look, we’ve got some of these left over from where I did my Brazilian wax job.

171
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So it does a pretty good job, better than my fingernails actually. It does a great job of cleaning up powder coat.

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This is a five millimetre thick black acrylic panel, which I’ve used fixed on to the existing fixing.

173
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The plastic is too thick to mount this keyboard normally, because normally if you look along the front of the keyboard keyboard here,

174
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you’ll see it’s got some little. It’s got some little notches or little little pieces which hook behind the steel

175
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panel and then you put some clamps in the back here to pull the panel down.

176
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Well, I’ve not done that. I’ve cut some notches in here to miss these pieces so that it drops in there flat like that.

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So it’s not fixed in at any way at the moment, but because I’m going to do something a bit different.

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I’ve taken the protective cover off of here, but once you take the protective cover off?

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You’ll find that after a while. You’ll find that these will start to wear a bit, particularly the ones that you use the most.

180
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So what I’ve done, I’ve got a piece of 5mm thick material, which I’ve used to fill in the gap around here like that,

181
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and it spaces this off to the same thickness, approximately the same thickness as the keyboard panel itself.

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And then I’ve made this peace. Now what we’ve got here is a piece of thin film.

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It’s an acetate film, the sort of thing that you may well have had on your Cindy doll, for example, or maybe your Christmas cards.

Transcript for K40 Xtreeem Laser Cutter – Changing The Controller (Cont…)

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Before I cut this piece of black acrylic out, I put a piece of double sided tape on the back here.

185
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So that, then I cut the acetate out separately and attach the two together.

186
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So that is now a protective film, which sits on top of the keyboard here.

187
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Okay, now I’ve got holes through here and this is a tapped hole in the back here.

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Now, bear in mind, this panel is fixed to here, so it’s nice and stable.

189
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And what I’m actually doing is clamping the keyboard on.

190
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With this protector screen. By the time, I put those four screws on there, my keypad is security fixed in there?

191
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Well, I think that’s probably all of the mechanics of the electrical bits done. We’ve got everything in place.

192
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All we’ve got to do is this bit now. Connect them up! Keyboard, ammeter and start / stop button.

193
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Now I might put this on the side here just to isolate the tube so that you can run this without the tube being switched on.

194
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Well, I’ve just coated that with silicone adhesive.

195
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It’s specifically designed for integrating high voltages, so we’ll leave that to set 12 or so hours and we’ll put that back tomorrow.

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Now I purposely clamped it in this position here so that it doesn’t get strained.

197
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OK, now the first problem I’m going to have with wiring is these stepper motors.

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First of all, the color coding on here red, blue, yellow, white doesn’t quite match what we got on here red, blue, green, black.

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We got two pairs, so I’m very confident that red and blue will be a pair.

Transcript for K40 Xtreeem Laser Cutter – Changing The Controller (Cont…)

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Now I’ve got to cut these off here anyway. I’ve got my meter set to continuity check.

201
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So hopefully. Yeah, if I get continuity, I should get a beep. Red and blue should be a continuous circuit, which they are.

202
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So that’s half as I expected. They are one pair. I’m going to have to make an assumption that red plus blue minus.

203
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And then the way that they run on here is red, blue, yellow, white.

204
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So I’m going to assume that that’s my coding. If they’re wrong,

205
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the worst it’s going to happen is the motor doesn’t work, and I’m going to have to swap these over to make it rotate.

206
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The next thing is we got two stepper motors.

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When we come to drive it, we need to know which one we’re driving. The cables are on here.

208
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This one goes definitely to the X-drive.

209
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And then there’s a motor under here, which is the Y-drive.

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And there’s a separate cable that comes into here, which is the Y-drive.

211
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So if I grab hold of just one of these cables, let’s

212
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just say the red cable for the Y-drive. When I pull this cable we’ll see whether or not we can see whether it’s this red cable or this red cable,

213
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which is changing length. And very conveniently, is this one which we have already cut off.

214
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So this is the Y-stepper motor. I put a little tab on there, so I don’t get them confused.

215
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So we’ve got our two stepper motors wired in. We’ve still got to put the power to them, but that’s just the motors in.

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Now you see why I want to easily remove this little controller.

217
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I can just take the controller out and easily get to all the connections that I need.

218
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So we’ve got X and Y limit switches here. When I look across there, the blue and green are the X-axis, and the white and black and the Y-axis.

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So for, say, this corner where it’s set 0,0 it’s going to drive plus that way.

Transcript for K40 Xtreeem Laser Cutter – Changing The Controller (Cont…)

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And plus that way. So technically each one of these is setting

221
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a minus. So I think I’m going to put these as minus if we get them wrong, we just swop the wires over.

222
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Now, I’m not planning to go through every detail of this wiring, but I’m just. Just a few key points that I happened to come across.

223
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I’ve got this cable here, which is the main connection, the keyboard cable, and I’m going to be using this as a sort of a…. a piece of trunking almost.

224
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I’m going to connect some very thin wires to here, to guide it through. Because that very conveniently,

225
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collapses when I fold the door down. And I’ve used of these plastic P-clips to secure the cable here,

226
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here and here. There are two very convenient screws just here, which allow me to fix the trunking to the base,

227
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and I’m going to pull all my mains cables away from this thick red cable here, which is the the power supply, the high voltage power supply cable.

228
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Umm. Because I don’t like the idea that I’m going to be transmitting high voltage signals into the mains by running it parallel with that cable.

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So we’ll put those in there and they conveniently will run along here, to where I want mains here.

230
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And then we’re going to have to pick up mains up here as well onto here.

231
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So it’s not, not a long, is not a long haul up here, but our mains, first of all,

232
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as it comes in, has got to come up here because this is where we’re disconnecting

233
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the mains. While we’re in this area, we’ll just, we’ll just very conveniently connect up out ammeter.

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Now, if you take a look on the ammeter, you’ll find that there’s a plus or at least a minus on one of them.

Transcript for K40 Xtreeem Laser Cutter – Changing The Controller (Cont…)

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So the one that comes in the tube goes on to the plus side. If you get this wrong, the worst that’s going to happen, the meter goes the wrong way.

236
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And we’ve got the other black wire which will eventually go back into the high voltage power supply.

237
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So the mains is coming in from the plug at the back. It’s running up here to the stop switch,

238
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the emergency stop switch or on/off switch and then it goes back down here into the power supply and it’s

239
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then picked up off the power supply and taken across here to this other mains conditioning power supply.

240
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So there’s all our mains in. Now,

241
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all we’ve got to do, we’ve got to run the 24 volt around, so we can run the 24 volts from here onto these and down to here.

242
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So we’ve very conveniently got a little tapped holel here, or at least it’s a hole. It might not be a tapped hole.

243
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But that will be suitable for fixing one of these little P-clips on. which will allow me to bring my 24 volt round this way.

244
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Now, up to now, we’ve been using the mains voltage through to here,

245
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which means that the current flow is not very high, so I feel fairly happy with these small diameter cables.

246
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But now we’re going to transmit some power. We’re going to probably have as much as two amps running through to these controllers.

247
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So what I’m going to do now, I’m going to change my cable size and put some slightly thicker

248
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cable to link all of these up.

249
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OK, so I have now wired, all 24 volt stuff in and we’ve got two channels on this and it says on here that it’s 6.5 amps, 24 volt.

250
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That’s obviously not per channel, I suspect, because these drivers could drawer up to two amps.

Transcript for K40 Xtreeem Laser Cutter – Changing The Controller (Cont…)

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What I’ve done, I’ve put one driver on one channel and one driver on the other channel.

252
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Then I borrowed some 24 volts off of one of the channels down to feed the the actual 6432 unit.

253
00:30:16,320 –> 00:30:23,670
Well, we’ve got two more bits to do, really. We’ve got these here, which are the controls for the stepper motor itself.

254
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So these are the pulse and direction controls that have got to go on to the stepper motors X and Y.

255
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And then finally, we’ve got to link these up to here, which controls the tube. Well, just to make life a little simpler for myself.

256
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I’ve just colored the wires to make sure I know where they go, because there’s a sort of a bit of confusion there with all these wires running around.

257
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But it looks pretty simple. You know, literally just three wires going to three places.

258
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Well,

259
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going to four places because the red wire’s going to pulse plus and direction plus and then the green and the blue just go to pulse minus and direction minus.

260
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OK, so all the wiring is now done. We’ve connected up the stepper motors to their drives, but we’ve not connected the tube to here.

261
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I don’t want the tube to run. I’m just going to test the motor drive system.

262
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This cable folds up nicely as we close it down. Well, we’re now ready to put some power on this unit, but before we start,

263
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we shall have to have a bit of a think because I’ve never been in this position before.

264
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Where I’ve got a. machine that’s never run, a controller that’s never run.

265
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We have a work area. And we’ve got a position up here.

266
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Which is 0,0. Now, first of all, I don’t know whether I’ve connected this machine up correctly,

267
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I don’t know how the controller, the vendor settings in the controller are set.

Transcript for K40 Xtreeem Laser Cutter – Changing The Controller (Cont…)

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It may well be that it’s going to send the stepper motor in that direction or that direction, that direction or that direction.

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I’ve got no idea. If it sends it in this direction, hopefully it may detect 0,0.

270
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But then when it’s detected 0,0o.

271
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This controller may be set for, say, a thousand by a thousand in which case it will go flying off in this direction, I say flying off.

272
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We don’t know what speed it’s going to go at. Because we haven’t said anything on the stepper drives yet.

273
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So there’s a lot of things that we ought to think about before we even turn this power on.

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Now, this will eventually set itself up to the correct linear dimensions when we do a calibration.

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But in the meantime, we have to think about what resolution do we want this machine to work at?

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Let me explain that for a second. Here, at end of the machine.

277
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We’ve got a tooth wheel. Now my toothed wheel happens to be twelve point five mm diameter.

278
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Now, remember the Belt is traveling over there. And it’s pulling the head backwards and forwards.

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Question is, what resolution do we want this head to be able to work to? 0.01 of a millimetre?

280
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0.02 of a millimetre? Well 0.02 is about, about a thousandth of an inch.

281
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If we want one count, it was 0.02.

282
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The stepper motors here are naturally 200 steps

Transcript for K40 Xtreeem Laser Cutter – Changing The Controller (Cont…)

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per revolution – 360 degrees. What we’ve got to do, first of all, is to calculate roughly what the circumference of twelve point five is.

284
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So that’s πD, that’s thirty nine point two seven.

285
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Say thirty nine point two eight, Thirty nine point two eight mm.

286
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If we want the increment to be 0.02, we’ve got to find out how many steps there are in thirty nine point two eight.

287
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So we’re going to divide that by point, oh, two millimetres, equals one thousand nine hundred and sixty three.

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So we’ve got to change the increment of that from naturally 200 to 2000.

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I’m going to assume that exactly the same wheel has been used on the y axis is the x axis.

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And so if I want 2000 steps per revolution.

291
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2000 there is. So I’ve got to set my switches on this drive to that set there.

292
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I’ve got no idea what power we really need.

293
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I don’t know what these stepper motors are limited to, but I’m going to set this initially to that one there,

294
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one amp. On the back of these stepper drivers, there’s a series of switches, so we’re going to set them both the same; on is down.

295
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And off is up. On on off. So that’s one to three.

296
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Five, six, seven. Off on on. Two down, 3 up. 2 down, 1 up. There you are, they’re both set the same now.

Transcript for K40 Xtreeem Laser Cutter – Changing The Controller (Cont…)

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As I said, I’ve got no idea what’s going to happen when I put the power on.

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I think I’m just going to have to hold this head so that it can’t go flying in any particular

299
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direction and just let the stepper motor cog. Just do its own thing till it runs out of steps.

300
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I’ve got the emergency stop switch off at the moment, so when I plug the power in, nothing should happen.

301
00:36:27,340 –> 00:36:40,260
Correct. Nothing happens, Power on!

302
00:36:40,260 –> 00:36:46,090
Well, nothing’s happening. Good temp file.

303
00:36:46,090 –> 00:36:54,960
Now, the first thing is, it’s all in Chinese. Menu.

304
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Don’t know. If I remember, rightly? I think it was the third menu down. So that’s menu number 2, enter.

305
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Top one enter. And here we are.

306
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Languages. Second one down. English, enter.

307
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Voila! Menu. All in English.

308
00:37:22,490 –> 00:37:28,230
So let’s go to Vendor Settings.

309
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Well, at the moment, it thinks it’s 620 millimeters wide.

310
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Well, we know that’s not the case. Probably 350. 350 by 250.

311
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So. So X is 350 for the time being and Y is 250.

312
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I’ve got no idea what the other settings are at the moment, so we’ll just leave them as they are.

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So we’ll write that back and we’ll just read it again to make sure.

Transcript for K40 Xtreeem Laser Cutter – Changing The Controller (Cont…)

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Yep 250 by 350. So the PC and the machine are communicating, okay. So now we need to go and have a look at the, at the user settings.

315
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So we look at the User Tab, and again, we need to read.

316
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And there we’ll find whether we’ve got, for instance, the setting cut parameters, sweep parameters, auxiliary feeding, home parameters.

317
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Auto home, this is why it’s not homing you see. Auto home X.

318
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Yes. Auto home Y?

319
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Yes. OK, what speed is it going to do it at? Homing speed, 250mm/s, that’s a bit fast, so we’ll change that to say a 100, OK, we’ll write that as well.

320
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We’ll, just read them again to make sure that they’ve gone in. Homing speed is a hundred and homing, yes, yes.

321
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So now when I press reset. It should run to the corner and set 0,0.

322
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Well, what did you notice, the first thing we noticed is, it went the wrong way.

323
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It went back, OK, but it went the wrong way in X.

324
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So we go back to the vendor settings. I would think that the direction needs to change from negative to positive for X.

325
00:39:58,030 –> 00:40:11,720
Write it back. Do another reset.

Transcript for K40 Xtreeem Laser Cutter – Changing The Controller (Cont…)

326
00:40:11,720 –> 00:40:17,210
It’s going through a reset routine, but it’s not doing it properly. It should come off, go back on,

327
00:40:17,210 –> 00:40:29,370
come off and that should be zero. So at the moment, it’s come off and it’s going back looking in the other direction.

328
00:40:29,370 –> 00:40:44,380
Ah the limit switch is not working. Menu / Controller / System settings / Recovery / Backup / Function setting, lets try enter.

329
00:40:44,380 –> 00:40:50,800
Diagnosis, there it is. Enter. Right.

330
00:40:50,800 –> 00:40:56,610
So let’s just see whether that switch is working when I press it. If I check X,

331
00:40:56,610 –> 00:41:00,990
nothing is happening. Y, nothing is happening.

332
00:41:00,990 –> 00:41:08,680
So we’ve got a problem with our switches at the moment. We’ve now made the limit switches work, they’re on.

333
00:41:08,680 –> 00:41:13,560
And when I press it, they go off. When I press it

334
00:41:13,560 –> 00:41:18,020
they go off. All right. I’ve got them to work. But whether they are they going to work the right way round?

335
00:41:18,020 –> 00:41:24,000
Or whether the switches are wired the right way round, I don’t know. What I’ve done, previously,

336
00:41:24,000 –> 00:41:32,580
limit switches are these basically electronic hall effect switches, and they need to be driven with a 24 volt signal.

337
00:41:32,580 –> 00:41:37,980
But in this case, you’re not putting a 24 volt signal across the micro switch.

338
00:41:37,980 –> 00:41:46,190
Presumably. The controller itself is supplying some maybe five volts to the micro switch.

339
00:41:46,190 –> 00:41:52,970
And then when you make the micro switch, you’re dropping the voltage to ground.

340
00:41:52,970 –> 00:42:04,010
So instead of supply, instead of connecting X minus and Y minus with 24 volts, what I’ve done, I’ve connected X Y, X-minus and Y-minus.

Transcript for K40 Xtreeem Laser Cutter – Changing The Controller (Cont…)

341
00:42:04,010 –> 00:42:09,140
And the common pair I’ve put onto the ground line. Because these are changeover micro switches.

342
00:42:09,140 –> 00:42:15,860
Are they going to work the right way or have I got to rewire the micro switch itself?

343
00:42:15,860 –> 00:42:23,000
So I’ve now reset this because this was running the wrong way. So I’ve had to go back and for some reason or other swap it over.

344
00:42:23,000 –> 00:42:27,770
So it’s negative again now, but it’s working exactly the way that we want it to work.

345
00:42:27,770 –> 00:42:43,100
So let’s press the reset button and see what happens. I suspect it might still not work.

346
00:42:43,100 –> 00:42:48,610
That’s going the wrong way. That’s going the right way.

347
00:42:48,610 –> 00:42:56,810
Now, it’s very slow stop. Let’s press that and that.

348
00:42:56,810 –> 00:43:06,330
And it’s going in. Hmm.

349
00:43:06,330 –> 00:43:09,440
Okay, now I think I’m fighting several things at once here, remember,

350
00:43:09,440 –> 00:43:19,010
this machine doesn’t really know anything about the real world, so I’ve just drawn a twenty five millimetre square.

351
00:43:19,010 –> 00:43:26,600
That’s where my 25mm square is going to start and it’s going to be a little thing like this, remember?

352
00:43:26,600 –> 00:43:32,470
And this is where I think. Something is pretty seriously wrong.

353
00:43:32,470 –> 00:43:37,330
The calibration of the machine can screw everything else up that you’re trying to fight with.

354
00:43:37,330 –> 00:43:42,610
I had this problem when I lost the calibration on my original machine and nothing

355
00:43:42,610 –> 00:43:47,350
started to make sense until I got the calibration approximately correct.

356
00:43:47,350 –> 00:43:54,550
In other words, I’ve got to tell this machine what 25mm looks like because at the moment, I don’t think it knows.

357
00:43:54,550 –> 00:44:04,810
But let’s just test it. 25mm / 10mm/s, that’s two and a half that should take 10 seconds to draw that.

Transcript for K40 Xtreeem Laser Cutter – Changing The Controller (Cont…)

358
00:44:04,810 –> 00:44:21,790
That doesn’t look like a 25 millimetre square, does it? You see, now that says Y equals zero.

359
00:44:21,790 –> 00:44:27,960
And now when I come forward.

360
00:44:27,960 –> 00:44:39,250
It says Y=250, so I should be able to scale that and get that right. 260

361
00:44:39,250 –> 00:44:44,470
Two oh, five. Which is 55 mm.

362
00:44:44,470 –> 00:44:52,980
So the original length should have been 250 because that’s what the keyboard says.

363
00:44:52,980 –> 00:45:00,940
And actually, it measured 55. OK.

364
00:45:00,940 –> 00:45:05,080
Okay, so let’s set zero in Y?

365
00:45:05,080 –> 00:45:13,360
So if we push it right to the bank like that, it doesn’t know that it isn’t zero.

366
00:45:13,360 –> 00:45:23,100
It still says zero on the keyboard, so we count forward. 242.

367
00:45:23,100 –> 00:45:42,890
So that’s more or less the right sort of dimension. So let’s try and do the same thing in X and try and scale X up.

368
00:45:42,890 –> 00:45:59,220
So let’s do a reset again. Now we’ll get the switches sorted out.

369
00:45:59,220 –> 00:46:10,160
Well, now that we’ve got the scaling sorted out, we’ve been fiddling around with this direction polarity and limiter polarity. Now in X,

370
00:46:10,160 –> 00:46:17,820
I had to put the invert the key function in and I’ve got positive and positive.

371
00:46:17,820 –> 00:46:22,550
And in Y we’ve got negative and positive.

372
00:46:22,550 –> 00:46:31,740
And I’ve got NO invert direction. So if I run this to the middle of the machine.

373
00:46:31,740 –> 00:46:45,120
And now press a reset. They’re both performing a perfect reset function.

374
00:46:45,120 –> 00:46:53,250
So we’ll just do a couple of quick final tests and then we will close this session.

375
00:46:53,250 –> 00:47:00,360
I will just run that to the middle of the table and we’ll call that origin just there.

376
00:47:00,360 –> 00:47:05,970
We’re running it at 10 millimetres a second. And it’s a 25 mm square.

377
00:47:05,970 –> 00:47:09,660
So that’s going to be two and a half seconds per side.

378
00:47:09,660 –> 00:47:27,270
So that should take 10 seconds to perform that test.

379
00:47:27,270 –> 00:47:34,050
And I’ll just check the time, but we didn’t calibrate the machine accurately, but we got nine seconds on here.

380
00:47:34,050 –> 00:47:40,650
It’s done exactly what it was asked to do and now we will do something silly just as a final test.

381
00:47:40,650 –> 00:47:48,900
I’ll just change that speed 400 and we’ll change it to a scan and it’s going to do it with a 0.1 scan interval.

382
00:47:48,900 –> 00:47:58,650
OK, let’s see what it makes of this. So I think we have a pretty successful little piece of kit now. We really need to change the accelerations on this.

383
00:47:58,650 –> 00:48:06,180
At the moment. I could see what we can do to force the accelerations up a little bit, but hey, that’s for another day.

Transcript for K40 Xtreeem Laser Cutter – Changing The Controller (Cont…)

384
00:48:06,180 –> 00:48:10,890
We’ve got it working. We don’t have to see how well it works today. We can do that at a future date.

385
00:48:10,890 –> 00:48:16,590
Thank you very much for your time and patience, and we shall carry on in the next session.

386
00:48:16,590 –> 00:48:20,790
We’ll get the laser connected up because we’ve got to get water.

387
00:48:20,790 –> 00:48:29,620
We’ve got to get air. We’ve got to get ventilation. There’s still quite a bit to do, but we’ve now got a fundamentally working machine.

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Last updated August 26, 2021

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