The Lightblade Learning Lab with Russ Sadler
The Lightblade Learning Lab is a series of videos that Russ did for Thinklaser Limited based on using the Lightblade 4060 Laser Cutting and Laser Engraving Machine. Thinklasers Lightblade 4060 has a 400 x 600mm bed size and was supplied with a 60W EFR laser tube. In this session, Russ shows us how to design and manufacture a DIY Rubber Stamp with your laser machine.

Contents
- (Editor’s Note: Thinklaser advise checking that the rubber you use does not contain Chlorine)
- Russ is using a product labelled as ‘Special Rubber for Laser Engraving’
- Using the honeycomb bed to put the rubber on – blocking off the honeycomb to get better airflow across the material.
- Using a test matrix which uses different speeds and powers.
- ‘Matrix Test with Air Assist’ can be found here.
- ‘Matrix Test without Air Assist’ can be found here.
- Brushing away the dust (presumably a filler material?)
- Cutting a test square (8mm/s and 68% power)
- Designing a rubber stamp in RDWorks
- Special rules to consider when engraving text and lines in RDWorks to ensure the correct things are engraved – checking with the Preview function.
- Use of the Ramp Effect to prevent thin letters/objects from wobbling.
- Reversing the image and outputting to a file.
- Engraving and cutting the stamp.
- Brushing away the dust.
- Cutting a backing for the stamp.
- Testing the stamp.
- Summary.
My thanks go out to Tom at Thinklaser for giving permission to embed these videos on this site. If you are looking for a new laser machine from a quality supplier, then I would suggest you check out their website: www.thinklaser.com.
Video Resource Files
Matrix Test without Air Assist
There are no more resource files associated with this video.
External Resource Links
There are no more external resource links associated with this video.
Transcript of Design and Manufacture a DIY Rubber Stamp
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[Music]
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you
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well welcome to another light blade
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learning rap
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today we’re going on a bit of a mission
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impossible now hello I’m try to make
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this series more of a demonstration than
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a discovery series there are times when
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I haven’t been here before and I did
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warn you at the beginning of this series
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that sometimes this would happen on my
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other machine I do a lot of discovery
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and research work so that I can look a
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bit more confident when I demonstrate
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things to you today I have no experience
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at all so we’re going to dive in at the
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deep end and you’re going to see how I
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and make you should approach dealing
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with new materials you haven’t tackled
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before now what I’ve got here is
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something that’s called special rubber
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for laser engraving and think placer
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have asked me if I could show you how to
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make rubber stamps it’s a bit like
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asking the Pope to run a marathon when
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you think he last did it you’re right
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never that’s the same with me and this
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material so we’ve got to learn quite a
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few things about this material before we
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can attempt to make a rubber stamp and
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that’s the process that I hope I’m not
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going to make an idiot of myself
Transcript of Design and Manufacture a DIY Rubber Stamp (Cont…)
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demonstrating to you here’s the basic
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machine with its bars and we’ve got a
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workout
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first of all we’re going to be
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ultimately engraving this material yeah
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look it’s a bit like trying to nail the
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smoke ring to the wall yeah
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I’m not so sure it’s sitting exactly
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flat on there because I can feel it
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Ripley so that’s not a good start for
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engraving because the back of the rubber stamp
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is not going to be seen it’s gonna
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have to be attached to something it
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wouldn’t matter if we use this that will
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support it nice and flat and it won’t
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matter if we do mark the back as we cut
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across all these honeycombs the one big
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thing that I don’t like about the
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honeycomb table is that the air that
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comes into the machine goes down and
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that’s not good news when you’re trying
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to engrave you want them you want the
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airflow to go across the surface so it’s
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debatable whether or not I should block
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off the rest of this here well there we
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go look we’ve got a piece of material
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that blocks off most of the most of the
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air that wants to go down there and
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we’ll be just working in this little
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corner here so we shall have a fairly
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good air flow across the surface
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but we’re going to look at this test
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through the through the glass because I
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want first of all to make sure we’ve got
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an airflow running across the machine so
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I’ve got the cover closed and because
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this is a rubber material that I’ve not
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used before even though it says for
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laser engraving that doesn’t mean to say
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it’s safe to breathe and the first thing
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we’re to do is something that I call a
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matrix test and basically it’s a scan
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test to see just how this material is
Transcript of Design and Manufacture a DIY Rubber Stamp (Cont…)
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going to perform
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now this metric test will be available
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on the object laser website and it’s
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available in two forms this first form
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that I’m going to use is with air assist
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normally if we’re doing engraving we
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don’t want air assist but this is a sort
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of a plasticy rubbery material and it
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might produce a lot of smoke and fumes I
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don’t know we’ll have to wait and see
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certainly not a lot going on there now
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we come on to the slightly higher power
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we’ve gone about 10% I think it’s the
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first one
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and then this second line is about 30% I
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think and then the next line is about
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65% and what we’ve got three different
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powers four different speeds so we’ve
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got 400 millimeters a second 300
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millimeters a second
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200 millimeters a second and then 100
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millimeters a second
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[Music]
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first of all we have got a distinct
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burnt rubbery smell it doesn’t mean to
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say it’s dangerous but it’s it’s an
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observation now what I can see on here
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is a lot of dust and as you can see it
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is only dust
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so it’s interesting this material is
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obviously burning away whatever the
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binder is in this material and it’s
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leaving behind this dust which must be a
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filler material within this rubber so
Transcript of Design and Manufacture a DIY Rubber Stamp (Cont…)
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it’s an interesting material that’s all
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I can say it’s not burning
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and it’s giving quite a nice clean cut
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now whether or not we can see lines in
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the bottom there even though I’ve got
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this set 2.1 it could be that we could
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maybe defocus it a bit but then again
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all we’re really interested in is
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removing the background and the question
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is how much of the background do we need
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to make a rubber stamp
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well that one there looks to be about
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probably half maybe half a millimeter
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that one there looks to be quite deep so
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that’s a hundred millimetres a second
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and I would suggest that that’s probably
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nearly a millimeter deep
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[Music]
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so now we’re going to try and do a test
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square and we’re doing this 8
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millimeters a second
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and 68%
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[Applause]
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a bit marked on the surface but not
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terribly so the edges actually again
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quite clean it’s dusty to start with I
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wonder whether we can go a bit faster
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faster we can cut generally the better
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say the smokey burn around the outside
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and it hasn’t made it and it hasn’t made
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it through
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it’ll probably push out because it’s
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pretty flexible
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it’ll tear out but that’s not what we
Transcript of Design and Manufacture a DIY Rubber Stamp (Cont…)
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want so it looks as though eight
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millimeters a second is what we’re going
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to be stuck with we now know the
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engraving parameters and the cutting
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parameters so we can go and design stamp
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well we’re not going to make a monstrous
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size stamp because I haven’t got a big
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stamp pad so we’ll choose a convenient
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rectangle we’re going to make that fifty
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mil by twenty five millimeters now going
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to do a ctrl copy ctrl C then I’ll put
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the arrow there I’ll do a ctrl V and
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I’ll put the arrow here and do a ctrl V
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and a ctrl V now all become clear in a
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minute this one here that’s our outside
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shape and I’m going to make that blue
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because I want that to be a cut line and
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eight millimeters a second is what we
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need
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cut blowing yes output yes speed 68 68
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that’s fine okay so that’s our cut layer
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there and now what I’m going to do is
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I’m going to reduce that by two
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millimeters overall in each direction so
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I’m going to make that 48 and that 123
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and then I’m going to make this one two
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millimeters smaller than that so it’s
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going to be 46 by 21 okay
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I’m now going to pull these all together
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and overlap them and I’ll do that by
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using this and this and there we go
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they’re all nicely grouped together now
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I just pull this one in so that it
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doesn’t take up such my space when I
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look at it on the preview screen so
Transcript of Design and Manufacture a DIY Rubber Stamp (Cont…)
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we’ve got a blue cut layer and we’ve got
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black scan layers let’s just check that
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scan output speed yes we decided 200
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millimeters was the right speed we’re
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blowing and we’re scanning and we’re
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doing that at yes 65% that’s what we
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agreed on and we’re going to set the
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interval down here we’ll leave that at
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point one which is where I had it before
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so that’s probably going to be okay
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because it seemed to work alright on the
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scan test so point one okay now we want
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to put some text in here and first of
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all I think we’ll set this to a fairly
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bland and simple text Arial it’s quite a
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thin text as well which is what I want I
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don’t want a bold text and I’ll explain
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why in a minute
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we set the width to 100% and size hider
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at five millimeters that sounds pretty
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reasonable it’s small but not too small
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uppercase D est that’s pretty inventive
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isn’t it and there it is so now we can
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move that into our box and now we’ll put
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some more text in let’s be a little bit
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more creative this time should we and
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just to emphasize that I think we’ll
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turn it into something bolder how about
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Arial black yeah Arial black
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that should do then we’ll try and slip
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that in there and it’s just too big so
Transcript of Design and Manufacture a DIY Rubber Stamp (Cont…)
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what we do would just squeeze that down
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a little bit yeah now it will go into
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there we go like that
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okay looks as though we’re nearly done
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now if we use it for those of you that
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haven’t done this sort of what can I
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call it vector text and graphics before
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in our D works there are some
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interesting rules that apply with
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scanning let’s just preview it and I’ll
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show you what I mean I can see from
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there that the test and the top secret
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are cut they’re not engraved have I got
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those accidentally on the wrong layer
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We certainly have look this text is in
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blue and it ought to be in black on a
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scan layer and not on a cut layer so
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let’s go back and preview it again so
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everything that’s white will be scanned
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is that what we want no because if we
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cut tests and top-secret and the frame
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the only thing that will be standing out
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will be the background so this is
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totally the wrong way around
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how do we get it the other way around
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well the answer is actually quite simple
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the rules for scanning are few got
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everything everything scanned on the
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same layer from the outside the first
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complete object in other words it’s not
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going to be a gap in it then it comes
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across will be engraved and so that
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frame there between the first and second
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line will be engraved the next section
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will be blank so that means all of this
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background will be blank
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in the next section after the blank
Transcript of Design and Manufacture a DIY Rubber Stamp (Cont…)
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section which will be all these
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individual letters will be engraved
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that’s not what we want now just for the
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moment I’m going to put these two items
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here into a group so that they don’t get
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messed around when I align things so I’m
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going to pop those into a group and then
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I’m going to mark a all of this slot and
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we’re going to align them both
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horizontally and vertically like that
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then nothing seems to have changed
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except that what I’ve got I’ve got black
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lines black lines black lines and black
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texts and my blue line has disappeared
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into the background that’s my cut layer
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I mean let’s predict how that black line
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will have affected things it comes
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across this black layer first and so it
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will engrave between that outer line and
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this inner line and then it will not
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engrave across the next boundary and
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then it will engrave everything that’s
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where my error is which is all this
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background and then the next boundaries
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that it comes across will be the letters
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where it will not engrave and we can
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confirm that with the preview engraved
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not engraved engraved not engraved
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that’s exactly what we want black is the
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surface and white is the background that
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will be engraved so that’s great but
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there is one more thing to be done but
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there are several things to be done
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actually but one important thing to be
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done these are very thin letters and the
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problem with thin letters as they may
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well wobble when you try to use them as
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a stamp and so there is a facility built
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within our D works and let’s bring the
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parameters back up again there’s a
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facility here called ramp effect so
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we’re going to click ramp effect and
Transcript of Design and Manufacture a DIY Rubber Stamp (Cont…)
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underneath it brings up a window called
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ramp length now currently I’ve got that
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ranked length set to point three and
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what that means is that down the side of
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each letter the
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we’ll be a little point three wide
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embankment let’s put it that way a
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buttress a slope now to make this a
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little bit clearer what I’m going to do
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is I’m going to change that to one
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millimeter
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we’re going to see what it looks like on
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the preview and there we go now you get
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a bit of an idea of how it works from
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the preview you can see these abutments
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and slopes down the side of each letter
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and they will obviously stiffened these
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very thin letters up it doesn’t really
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matter about these thick letters because
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they’re stiff enough to hold themselves
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up but hey one millimeter is a silly
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amount because look you can see things
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are beginning to join together so I
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don’t think we need anywhere near point
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we don’t need anywhere near one
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millimeter so we’ll go back and we’ll
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reset that again to about will set it to
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0.3 okay now we can take a quick preview
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of that again and you’ll see that
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they’re still there but they’re much
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more compact and they don’t join up with
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each other they don’t merge up between
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the letters okay so I think that’s the
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job done we’re ready to save it and
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output it to a file ah no we’re not
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anybody spot the deliberate error put
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some handles around the hole of that and
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let’s do this now does it make more
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sense so we saved that to a file pop out
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to the Machine and see if we can make it
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Transcript of Design and Manufacture a DIY Rubber Stamp (Cont…)
work
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[Music]
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most of the smoke is going back it’s not
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coming out of the machine it might not
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seem that to you but
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[Music]
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that’s the right way to do it close the
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door and have just a little bit of
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airflow right across the machines you
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can see the difference it makes
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first of all yes it has just about cut
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out and then all that dust look just
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sitting in there some sort of powder
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some sort of filler that’s obviously
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used in there the edge just cleans off
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even though it is a little bit dark
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again it looks as though it’s burnt dust
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of some sort because it comes up pretty
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clean I’m surprised about that and if we
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look at it carefully we can see that the
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letters are very slightly tapered which
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is exactly what we want we want these
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thin letters here to be supported I’ve
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got here is a piece of white perspex
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just because it happens to be white and
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on the back I’ve attached a piece of
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strong double-sided tape this is
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industrial-strength double-sided tape
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right so there we go there’s our little
Transcript of Design and Manufacture a DIY Rubber Stamp (Cont…)
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stamp holder why I should do is peel off
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that
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will stand on edge so that we get the
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edges nicely lined up and we’ll pop that
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down in front of it like that
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there we go that’s nicely lined up
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and we’ve got that top-secret stamp here
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we’ve got my top-secret classified
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document and it’s written in invisible
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ink for double security reasons as well
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as encoded so should just pop that on
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the ink pad and
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[Music]
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[Music]
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[Music]
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me not knowing how to use the ink pad I
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think now I think we’ve fixed it now
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there we go we’ve got the secret there
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scrub it across the city
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scrub it across the ink pad don’t blob
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it we just need a thin film on the
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surface
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well that wasn’t as embarrassing as I
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thought it might be it turned out to be
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quite a straight road that we were
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traveling so I’m very pleased with the
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end result of that nothing particularly
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dangerous about it the material was
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pretty easy to cut it was certainly very
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easy to engrave well it’s one of the
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nicer materials that I’ve worked with
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apart from acrylic so thanks for your
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time and I’ll catch up with you in the
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next session
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