Session 8: Let’s Build A K40 Xtreeem DIY Rotary – Pt 2

K40 Xtreeem Laser Cutter Upgrade Series

Welcome to Session 8 of the all new K40 Xtreeem Laser Cutter Upgrade Series with Russ Sadler. In this Session, Russ continues to build his K40 Xtreeem DIY Rotary and makes some design improvements over his original concept. Once completed, it’s time to make some relevant changes to the K40 Xtreeem chassis. These include a shortened lightweight head, a short lens tube, shortened nozzle and a button to manually set the Y-axis home position. When it’s all up and running, it’s time to do some testing.

Release Date: 28th June 2022

Over the last 6 years, Russ has built up a formidable YouTube following for his RDWorks Learning Lab series which currently has over 200 videos.

The original RDWorks Learning Lab series on his “Sarbar Multimedia” YouTube Channel, follows Russ as he tries to make sense of his new Chinese laser machine. He then sorts out the truths, half truths and outright misleading information that is available on the web.

Six years later with over 4.5 million YouTube Views under his belt. Russ has become the go to resource for everything related to the Chinese CO2 laser machine user or wannabe user.

K40 DIY Rotary - Yeti Mug Ready for Engraving
K40 DIY Rotary – Yeti Mug Ready for Engraving

In this new series, Russ has condensed his knowledge and experience of the last 6 years to provide valuable information and insights into developing practical K40 Laser Cutter Upgrades. Resulting in his total remodelling of the K40 Xtreeem Laser cutter machine. Making it into a powerful, compact laser cutting and engraving solution for those on a budget.

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Session 8: Let’s Build A K40 Xtreeem DIY Rotary – Pt 2

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Session 8 – Let’s Build a K40 Xtreeem DIY Rotary – Pt 2

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Session 8 – Let’s Build a K40 Xtreeem DIY Rotary – Pt 2

Video Resource Files for Let’s Build a K40 Xtreeem DIY Rotary

The resource files for this K40 Xtreeem Laser Cutter Upgrade project can be found at the K40 Xtreeem Project Files Resource Page.

Short Lightweight Head For Xtreeem Rotary

Short Lightweight Head for Xtreeem Rotary Unit

Xtreeem Rotary Unit

Xtreeem Rotary Unit

There are no additional resource files associated with this video.

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Then Just click on the link below, which will open up an information request form.

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Transcript for Let’s Build a K40 Xtreeem DIY Rotary – Pt 2

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The K40 Extreme Laser Cutter Upgrade Series with Russ Sadler.

2
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Session 8: Let’s build an Xtreeem rotary attachment.

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Part two. We completed the mechanical build of the rotary device in the last session.

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Today we’ve got quite a lot to do because we’ve got to make some modifications to the machine.

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If you remember, one of the last points I made was that.

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This head is far too long. To allow me to get underneath the head to engrave.

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Well, today we’re going to this alternative head, which is a short version.

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In my first attempt, you can see that I basically modified one of my standard heads here by cutting the side off and making it as narrow as possible.

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I didn’t know how much room I needed at the end here, but look, I’ve got absolutely buckets of room here so I can use my standard lightweight head.

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And that standard lightweight head is the same mounting as this short version.

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Hey, that’s for later. First of all, I had a problem to solve.

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Now, remember that I managed to wreck this x axis stepper motor when I pulled the little brass

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pulley off the end of the shaft and I replaced it with the bigger turbocharged version.

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As I was setting this up. I realized it was giving me different dimensions to this one.

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And although I didn’t really think about it at the time, because I just went into the calibration and recalibrated this motor.

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It turns out that this motor here must be a 0.9 degree per step, as opposed to this one, which is 1.8 degrees per step.

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90% of all the motors on the market at 1.8 steps and I checked this part number, I couldn’t find anywhere.

Transcript for Let’s Build a K40 Xtreeem DIY Rotary – Pt 2 (Cont…)

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I checked the k40 websites and everything that I could see told me that these motors were 1.8 step motors.

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Fine, I originally had two of these motors on it that were working.

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The data on the side of the driver tells me just the number of steps that are being output.

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It doesn’t say whether or not they’re for a 0.9 or a 1.8 stepper motor.

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They are just steps, micro steps. You may remember back to probably our session three,

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maybe it was. When I decided that my driveway was roughly 13mm diameter on both the X and the Y axis.

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And that gave me a circumference of 41mm, which when I installed the drivers,

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I made a conscious decision that I was going to look for a resolution,

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a step resolution of 0.2mm, divide that into 41mm, which is the circumference.

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And that means I need roughly 2050, say, 2000 steps because that was the number that was on the driver.

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So 2000 steps would give me one revolution.

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In reality, 2000 steps divided into 41, roughly 20 microns per step.

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When I put this new driver in, I found that it was giving me twice as much movement in X.

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Well, the reason why it was giving me twice as much movement in X, is because my initial assumption was actually wrong.

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Although I thought I was putting in 0.2 resolution.

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In reality, I was putting in 0.1mm resolution when I asked for 2000 steps.

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Because 400 steps per rev means I’ve got 41 divided by 0.01, which is 4100.

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Let’s just say 4000 steps per revolution.

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So when I set the driver to 2000 steps per revolution, I’m not going to get a whole revolution of the stepper motor.

Transcript for Let’s Build a K40 Xtreeem DIY Rotary – Pt 2 (Cont…)

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I’m only getting half a revolution.

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So this next stage here, which is similar to this one, was not going to give me the right result. In fact, what I’ve got to do,

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I’ve got to divide 2000, which is the steps into half a turn, i.e. half of that, roughly ten microns per step, not 20 microns per step.

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This is the number that’s in my Vendor settings for this new stepper motor.

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And the 0.9, which is now my Y stepper motor, is showing at 10.1 microns as opposed to 10.025.

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So it’s still ten microns basically, ten microns for this one and 20 microns for this one.

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Why I’ve had to understand and explain this problem to you, is because now I’ve got to make a decision.

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Do I need another stepper drive unit to drive the rotary device?

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It will have to drive off the y axis signal.

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But I could divert that signal into another driver, because I might want a different number of steps to drive it.

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So let’s just take a look at what’s going to happen with the rotary set up.

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The wheels are 26mm diameter. So that’s a circumference of roughly 82mm.

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But remember, I’ve got the stepper drive set to 2000 micro steps per revolution.

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So if I take 82mm and divide it by 2000, I get a step resolution of 0.041, 41 microns.

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Now, let’s just step back for a minute to where we started our calibration in session three.

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My decision in session three was nothing to do with the number of steps on the stepper motor itself.

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It was purely to do with dividing the circumference of the wheel into x number of divisions.

Transcript for Let’s Build a K40 Xtreeem DIY Rotary – Pt 2 (Cont…)

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And that number of divisions was 2000. That was the number of steps that I set on the stepper driver.

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I thought I was setting a resolution of 0.02 mm per step,

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but then I had to calibrate the machine and I used the calibration system that’s built into vendor settings.

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And what we did. Was to say, look, here’s what a 100mm looks like.

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Go forth and draw a 100mm.

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And in doing so. It said, okay, a 100mm represents 10,000 steps, but the controller tells me that I’m stupid.

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And in fact, I’ve got a resolution of 0.01, ten microns, not 0.02.

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And it did the same for the Y axis, because both stepper motors were the same.

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So when I changed the stepper motor from 400 steps to 200 steps per revolution, and I didn’t tell the controller that I’d made that change.

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What happened was the controller took ten microns per step.

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And divided into a 100mm and said, ah! You want to move 10,000 steps.

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Well, if I’ve got a resolution of 0.02 times 10,000.

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I’m going to move twice as far as I did when I had a resolution of 0.01.

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And that is why I finished up with, going that far

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in X. So I had to finish up teaching the machine what I wanted it to do.

Transcript for Let’s Build a K40 Xtreeem DIY Rotary – Pt 2 (Cont…)

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I wanted it to do a 100mm. Okay, now go forth and tell me what the computation is.

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And the answer is, ah, I only moved 5000 steps.

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And so therefore now 5000 steps into a 100mm.

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Is 20 microns per step. Everybody’s happy.

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I’ve got my 0.02 resolution.

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And here it is 0.02. The machine works fine.

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Now we’re going to disrupt things because we’ve done this.

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So when I unplug the y axis.

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And plug my rotary into the y axis.

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What is going to happen? We’re hopefully looking for, say, 40 microns per step.

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But what does the vendor settings say? The vendor setting says ten microns per step.

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So it’s going to take ten microns into a 100mm, which is 10,000 steps.

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Times 0.041.

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And in fact, it’s now going to move 400mm and not a

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100mm. So we’ve got a big problem.

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We’ve got three possible solutions.

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One. We could, modify the drawing before we send it to the machine.

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And by that I mean to say we could take our drawing. And we could make it,

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quarter the size in Y. We can put a 25% scaling factor on our drawing in

Transcript for Let’s Build a K40 Xtreeem DIY Rotary – Pt 2 (Cont…)

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Y. The other alternative will teach the machine what a 100mm of rotary looks like on the circumference of an item?

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And we can find out what this factor is here. Maybe it’s going to be 0.041, 41 microns.

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Now, we could make a note of that number, and every time we use the Rotary encoder,

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we can go into the vendor settings and we can remove the 10 microns and overwrite with 41 microns.

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Yeah, that’s okay. But the chances are you might forget what’s going on.

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Once we know this factor and we’ve generated a new set of vendor data, what we could do is we could save that.

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as a rotary Vendor Settings. So we can write that back as a different set of vendor settings.

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And then every time we use the rotary we will just load in the rotary vendor settings.

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And when we use the machine as a linear machine, we’ll put in the linear vendor settings.

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One will be 10 microns and the other will be 41 microns.

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That, I think is probably the neatest way. Okay, that’s

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all the theory out of the way. Let’s get on with the mechanics and make sure we can get the mechanics working.

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Look, we’ll just take this head off. There are nuts behind here which are captive.

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There are nuts behind here which are loose. And at the moment I’ve got an additional security screw, down at the bottom here.

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So to take the belt off, we’ve got to first loosen the tension with this idler pulley.

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So we’ve got to push this to the back here where we’ve got a hole, which allows us to loosen these small screws off here and let the tension off.

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So unscrew the screws until they’re just flush with the bracket.

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Just loosen these off and slide the belt out.

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Now, here are those M4 nuts that I was telling you about on the back that are captivated here.

Transcript for Let’s Build a K40 Xtreeem DIY Rotary – Pt 2 (Cont…)

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The reason why we keep these two plates separate.

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That’s because to get this fitting in, we need to take the plate apart, because, look, it’s captivated in that hook there.

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Because it makes life a lot easier with these nuts.

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that have got to go in here. Can I just suggest that you put a piece of tape over the back of this plate and then just trim it off with a knife?

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Now that’s going to make your life a lot easier when it comes to holding these nuts in here.

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Now, I’ve got to countersink these four holes here. Should fit neatly over there. Before you put this all together.

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We need to pop that, in that little hook there and then that sits over the front and retains it.

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Now, it’s supposed to be wobbly like that, as I showed you in in the session when we assembled this head originally.

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We’ve got some special oversize M3 washers there, which are a very important part of this assembly.

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Now you just have to punch some holes through the back there to let the M3 fixing screws, the four M3 fixing screws through.

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Now, to fix this onto the bracket there, we’ve got some M3 by 10mm long countersunk screws.

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Now, I’m not the least bit frightened of taking this apart again and again and again, because hey, setting up the beam is not a big issue.

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And in fact, what we’re doing here, we haven’t got to set X up again.

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We haven’t got to set Y up again. All we’ve got to do is just tweak Z into place.

Transcript for Let’s Build a K40 Xtreeem DIY Rotary – Pt 2 (Cont…)

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So we just pull those washers forward and put the belt behind it.

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What we’ve got to try and do, is to get the belt as evenly as possible between the washers.

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This second one is going to have a lot of slack on it now because I’ve changed the position in which I’m mounting the belt.

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It was previously here and now it’s out here. So we’ve got a lot more slack on this belt.

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But don’t let that worry you, because it’s not going to get in the way of anything.

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We tuck that behind the washers as well. We put it

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snug, not tight. Because we’ve got our tensioning system at the end to tighten the belt up.

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So now we can get at the end here and we can tighten up our screws and put tension on the belt.

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And we can have quite a lot of tension on this belt, because it is a very small, lightweight belt and it’s got a big job to do.

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See? You can see, it’s got quite a lot of tension on there. Previously

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I had these fixed on with cap head screws, but I’m going to be using pan head screws now and I’ll explain why in a few seconds.

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Now, the reason I’m changing to pan head screws is because there is one screw just here.

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This bottom right hand screw, which is pretty close to the lens tube.

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If I have a cap head screw, it touches and collides with the lens tube. The pan head screw because it’s a lot more lower

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profile, misses the corner of the lens tube. We’ll have to make some interesting adjustments here to make sure that I can get my butterfly clamp in.

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But that all works OK. You can’t use a conventional lens tube and nozzle because it projects way too low.

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So let’s just temporarily pop this back in here.

Transcript for Let’s Build a K40 Xtreeem DIY Rotary – Pt 2 (Cont…)

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You can see now I’m comfortably above here, but I haven’t got that much room for a nozzle.

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So what I’ve got here, it’s a short nozzle, which I’ve turned the bottom off of, so that I’ve got a nice 6mm hole in the bottom there.

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And in addition to that, I’ve turned the outside down so that it’s 24 millimeters diameter, the same diameter as the lens tube itself.

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We can see there, I’ve got plenty of room underneath that nozzle now. I can put my finger under there.

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So that we’ve got at least 12 or 15mm under there.

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All right. Now. I can, it’ll probably get even more because I’ve got to find out

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now where the right place is to re locate the head.

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Our next task is to realign the beam, and that’s going to be easy.

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All we need is an empty lens tube, and I’ve got my little setting jig here, which we’ll pop onto the bottom of the lens tube.

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And we’ll put this head roughly in the mid position and tighten it up.

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Okay. So let’s get my little targets out. Pop that one in the corner there.

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Oh, can’t do that now. We’ve got to drop it down.

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I’ve got to be down below that second point here.

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Because there’s two material thicknesses there and that sits in the corner just nicely and locates it perfectly. OK.

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So we drop it down to the bottom. The one at the back is our target. Across.

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Which should be that one. Bit more? Pretty reasonable.

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And then we’ve got to go backwards. So I’ve got to let that one off. Difficult to get that target out of there.

Transcript for Let’s Build a K40 Xtreeem DIY Rotary – Pt 2 (Cont…)

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So we just do that with an allen key. Another target.

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Now, remember, this is an iteration process, so we’re not going to be able to do it in one. We can

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turn that target over and try it again.

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This mirror is in the same position, this way. All right? So technically, I should still be in line with mirror number two.

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And this gives the impression. So the only thing I’ve got to do now is to get the beam on centre.

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Now, bear in mind, at the moment, the centre is here.

161
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It’s too low on this mirror.

162
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And to get it to move across and catch the beam, I’ve got to drop that mirror down.

163
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So we’ll just undo these and push this down. A bit more.

164
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And just lock that up. And I would say that that’s just about spot on.

165
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Now we’ve got the alignment correct. We can actually do our other alignment at the top here and there we go.

166
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Pretty good. So you can see, it didn’t take very long at all to realign that

167
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head. Let’s just tighten things up. We’ll just do one final check, just to make sure we haven’t pushed anything out of line. Pretty good.

168
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So that’s how complicated it is to set the beam up after we change the head.

169
00:19:33,800 –> 00:19:38,840
So now what we’ve got to decide is what sort of lens are we going to put in there?

170
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I’m going to try an inch and a half gallium arsenide lens in there. So I’ve got an inch and a half lens in there.

171
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And I think that this will just about snuggle onto there.

172
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Yeah, that’s perfect. I can very quickly just check where the focal point is.

Transcript for Let’s Build a K40 Xtreeem DIY Rotary – Pt 2 (Cont…)

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Yeah, it looks to be about 7 or 8mm below the nozzle, which is just about perfect.

174
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I’ve made one of my acrylic drill jigs to spot through the fixing holes.

175
00:20:31,710 –> 00:20:35,490
There we go. That’s. That’s the location for the socket.

176
00:20:36,570 –> 00:20:39,540
Well, I’ve connected up the stepper motor now, into its little socket.

177
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And that we’ll turn it on and make sure it’s all working as it should be, because all I’ve done is really just connected,

178
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put a connector in that line. So this should now work exactly as it did before.

179
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Yep, that does. What we’re going to do now is to turn the power off.

180
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Disconnect this one. The Y is not going to move anymore.

181
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And I connect in the stepper motor. Now, remember, the stepper motor at the moment is going to run far too fast.

182
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So let’s just see what happens to the stepper motor. Now, the Y will not move, but the X will do.

183
00:21:42,180 –> 00:21:45,300
And that’s good, because at the moment I need to push this

184
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Y switch to set a zero? Let’s put the stepper motor there, where you can see it whirring.

185
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And we turn it on. And that stepper motor is busy wizzing away very quickly.

Transcript for Let’s Build a K40 Xtreeem DIY Rotary – Pt 2 (Cont…)

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And now I’ve set zero. You’ll notice this didn’t jump until I’d set that zero.

187
00:22:18,750 –> 00:22:21,810
It was waiting for a second zero. We found this zero first.

188
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It was then waiting for zero on there. So now when I press the Y button.

189
00:22:31,640 –> 00:22:37,970
I’ve got control of that, but it’s running far too fast.

190
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Now I’ve got no means of calibrating at the moment. We know the calibration is about 41 microns per step.

191
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We’re go into vendor settings. We bring up these settings here.

192
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We will first of all read. Okay, now read takes in the existing machine vendor settings.

193
00:23:02,040 –> 00:23:11,870
Then we go to the y axis now and you’ll notice the step length is 10.1, which is what we expected it to be for the Y axis.

194
00:23:12,170 –> 00:23:15,160
We’re going to change that to 41.

195
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Don’t know what the real number is, but we just put 41 in there and we will save that. And I’ll put in here K40 rotary, save parameter, success.

196
00:23:28,310 –> 00:23:31,400
So I’m now going to write that back to the machine. I haven’t changed the x.

197
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The X was still be about 20 if I remember right, there it is 20.

198
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Okay?

199
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So we write that back to the machine and now we should find the stepper motor is running much slower. So I’ve brought the stepper motor over to the front here.

200
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So you can see it. And as I go, you see it’s now running a lot slower and it runs a certain number of revolutions.

201
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Just stick a bit tape on there. And we’ll count

Transcript for Let’s Build a K40 Xtreeem DIY Rotary – Pt 2 (Cont…)

202
00:24:00,820 –> 00:24:05,680
roughly how many revolutions it does? One, two, three.

203
00:24:06,130 –> 00:24:09,400
Two and three quarters. Now, two and three quarters,

204
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is if you remember, the circumference is about 80mm.

205
00:24:14,830 –> 00:24:21,730
82mm. So there’s 160 plus three quarters.

206
00:24:22,450 –> 00:24:27,670
So that’s about another 60, so that’s about 240mm of circumferential travel.

207
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So if we go and look at the Y axis, you’ll find that the breadth there look, 235, we worked 240mm.

208
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Okay. So the breadth is the distance that this wheel will travel.

209
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Let’s assume that we want to do a 90mm diameter cup and we want to engrave it all the way round.

210
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We don’t want it to stop halfway. So how far is the conference, around a

211
00:24:54,580 –> 00:25:02,800
a 90mm cup? Well 3 x 9 are 27 plus another 8, roughly.

212
00:25:04,590 –> 00:25:17,070
So if we said about 320mm, what we can do, we can set that breadth now, the Y-breadth to 320.

213
00:25:18,220 –> 00:25:23,590
Okay. So now we should find that this rotates more revs.

214
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One, two, three, four. Nearly. There’s nothing to set the zero on here at all.

215
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That is why we’ve got the button on the side of the machine so that I can press it and set zero.

216
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Or we could fiddle with the Y microswitch at the back and set zero. Which is what I did this time round.

217
00:25:43,630 –> 00:25:55,510
I haven’t yet connected up my zeroing red button, but all it’s going to do, is to link in to the same place that the Y microswitch is linked in.

218
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So I can just copy the Y microswitch with my red button.

219
00:25:59,650 –> 00:26:03,310
We’ll write that back. Okay.

Transcript for Let’s Build a K40 Xtreeem DIY Rotary – Pt 2 (Cont…)

220
00:26:04,480 –> 00:26:08,680
And now, if I want to put my other system back,

221
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what I’ve got to do is open and look, there’s a setting there called K40 Xtreeem RDV set and this is input parameter success.

222
00:26:19,290 –> 00:26:25,080
Okay. We’ve read it into here. We’ve now got to write it back into the machine.

223
00:26:25,290 –> 00:26:28,410
So now I’ve put the original settings back into the machine.

224
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If I want to put the other settings into the machine, I’ve got to open the rotary settings.

225
00:26:35,700 –> 00:26:39,569
Input success. But it will only input to here.

226
00:26:39,570 –> 00:26:42,680
It’s not input to the machine. Okay.

227
00:26:42,690 –> 00:26:52,000
And now I’ve got to write that back to the machine. And now I shall find that my Y is 41, I don’t know whether 41 is the right dimension.

228
00:26:52,020 –> 00:26:55,860
We’ve got to calibrate this now against something.

229
00:26:57,340 –> 00:27:01,360
And we’ll work out what we’re going to do. We do it with a rotary motion.

230
00:27:01,840 –> 00:27:05,620
I’ve taken a couple of hours out. And finished off a couple of jobs.

231
00:27:05,650 –> 00:27:11,890
First of all, I’ve now got my zero switch connected up.

232
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So when we start the thing up, I should be able to zero it with that.

233
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I don’t think I showed you the sockets that I’m using. All right.

234
00:27:19,910 –> 00:27:29,090
They’re not normally used for this sort of application, but hey, I’m quite happy to use anything that’s convenient and cheap.

235
00:27:29,420 –> 00:27:36,680
And that’s what these are. And they’re small. I didn’t want a great big four way connector hanging out inside here.

236
00:27:37,100 –> 00:27:43,700
So we’ve got one of these connected in here. And you saw me drilling the holes and cutting the shape out for it.

237
00:27:44,270 –> 00:27:51,710
And here are my two connectors that are either the X Y drive when I plug it in there.

238
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Or the rotary drive when I plugged that one in. The sharp eyed ones among you might recognize a small change that I’ve made, hmmm possibly a large change.

Transcript for Let’s Build a K40 Xtreeem DIY Rotary – Pt 2 (Cont…)

239
00:28:07,550 –> 00:28:12,350
But actually it took very little time and effort because the design was very easily adaptable.

240
00:28:12,500 –> 00:28:21,020
So let’s just turn it on and see what happens. Now, first of all, as I said, we should not get any movement in Y because the Y axis is disconnected.

241
00:28:23,300 –> 00:28:27,920
But we should see it trying to find an X zero over there.

242
00:28:30,470 –> 00:28:36,730
And this is running away. Oh!

243
00:28:40,380 –> 00:28:45,930
My reset switch doesn’t work for some reason or other. I’ll have to work out why shortly.

244
00:28:51,060 –> 00:28:54,389
There we go. So, it revolves very, very nicely

245
00:28:54,390 –> 00:29:04,560
thank you. Now! I have to admit, when it had an idler wheel over there, it didn’t rotate very consistently.

246
00:29:04,710 –> 00:29:08,280
It was stop,/ start Not very good at all.

247
00:29:09,240 –> 00:29:16,890
If you look closely, what you’ll see now. We’ve got two stepper motors, one driving up hill and one driving downhill.

248
00:29:17,760 –> 00:29:21,750
And that works absolutely perfectly. And I’ve got a piece of masking tape on there.

249
00:29:22,080 –> 00:29:26,130
I’m just going to draw a straight line in the Y axis here, I’ll press down the control key.

250
00:29:26,520 –> 00:29:36,450
We select the line tool. Okay? And we’ll just give that a dimension in Y of 100mm.

251
00:29:36,630 –> 00:29:44,710
So I don’t know which way. So that’s Y-zero and.

252
00:29:48,650 –> 00:29:52,490
It’s going to go that way.

253
00:29:55,480 –> 00:30:08,260
Okay. So that’s Y=Zero and we’ll press the origin button and I’ll just set the parameters for that line. We’ll keep the power low at about 15%.

Transcript for Let’s Build a K40 Xtreeem DIY Rotary – Pt 2 (Cont…)

254
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We’ll have the speed at about 15. Okay.

255
00:30:13,780 –> 00:30:18,280
Now, I purposely haven’t got the laser switched on at the moment. We’ll just rotate that around to there.

256
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Now I’ll turn the laser on and run the program. Let’s take that piece of tape off there.

257
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I would say that it’s about 97.2.

258
00:30:35,880 –> 00:30:40,830
So back in the vendor settings. So we’ve got to repeat before we get the right option.

259
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Y step length? Press

260
00:30:45,690 –> 00:30:52,800
the three little buttons. Out measured length was 97.2.

261
00:30:56,930 –> 00:31:01,300
Okay. And watch our 41 change now.

262
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To 39.8. It’s still nearly 40 microns pertstep.

263
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Now we can write that back into the vendor settings and we will also save that now as

264
00:31:16,990 –> 00:31:23,220
rotary. Save. Do you want to replace it?

265
00:31:23,250 –> 00:31:26,750
Yes. Okay.

266
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So now we’ve got all the settings that we want, at the moment for the rotary.

267
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I really don’t want to accelerate too quickly between the line scans just in case we lose anything trying to accelerate the mass.

268
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So I think we’ll bring that acceleration right down to 5000 and we will save that.

269
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Rotary. Okay.

270
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And we’ll write it back to the machine as well. Write. Now we can just do a quick test here.

Transcript for Let’s Build a K40 Xtreeem DIY Rotary – Pt 2 (Cont…)

271
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Test text there we go, that will do. Now, obviously, we don’t want it,

272
00:32:07,980 –> 00:32:13,230
we don’t want it to sit that way. So we’re going to have to rotate it before we send it to the machine.

273
00:32:13,860 –> 00:32:21,810
So we rotate it by -90. It’s just it will be much easier if we position the head here relative to the top edge of the mug itself.

274
00:32:22,830 –> 00:32:28,770
It went that way backwards. So realistically, what we ought to do, is we ought to set the

275
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system setting to the bottom corner because that’s where we’re going to start.

276
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Okay. Now, as I said, I’ve not set that head to anything special. That is just roughly 7 or 8mm.

277
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This is engraving. We don’t have to be too accurate.

278
00:32:48,190 –> 00:32:52,990
This is not photo engraving. This is just normal engraving. I’m pressing the up button.

279
00:32:53,440 –> 00:32:57,310
And it’s as far clockwise. It’s as far that way as we can go.

280
00:32:57,910 –> 00:33:04,809
So these buttons effectively on the screen, the buttons on the keyboard are moving that work in the right direction.

281
00:33:04,810 –> 00:33:08,050
So when I press the down button, the work moves this way.

282
00:33:09,130 –> 00:33:17,840
Let’s see what we get shall we? Frame

283
00:33:18,200 –> 00:33:21,439
oversize, work paused. Okay.

284
00:33:21,440 –> 00:33:31,910
So maybe it wants to work the other way. So we do an escape and we move that to there.

285
00:33:33,590 –> 00:33:36,770
And we try again. Press the origin button there.

286
00:33:44,770 –> 00:33:49,450
Press stop and it should go back to zero, which it does.

287
00:33:51,370 –> 00:33:57,010
Let’s increase the power. We’ll make the speed 400 and we’ll take the power up to 20%.

Transcript for Let’s Build a K40 Xtreeem DIY Rotary – Pt 2 (Cont…)

288
00:34:06,440 –> 00:34:09,650
And we’ve done the letters backwards.

289
00:34:10,100 –> 00:34:13,310
Very interesting. Now, what I didn’t show you.

290
00:34:13,610 –> 00:34:23,750
I’ve got a little plastic bubble here. I set that end up there to the right height so that it’s level in this area here where we’re going to engrave.

291
00:34:24,710 –> 00:34:28,970
Okay. Now, I could have done it by measuring the gap between here and here and here and here.

292
00:34:29,420 –> 00:34:32,510
But I thought that was a quick and simple way.

293
00:34:32,540 –> 00:34:35,630
It doesn’t have to be too super accurate for engraving.

294
00:34:36,410 –> 00:34:41,160
In fact, generally for engraving, you get better results, especially on organic materials.

295
00:34:41,240 –> 00:34:48,500
If you’re maybe three or four millimetres out of focus, you get a better burn and less of a cut. As it happens.

296
00:34:48,830 –> 00:34:58,040
we can still get air assist in here look, and we could go a little bit higher, a little bit bigger on this diameter because we’ve got room to spare.

297
00:34:58,040 –> 00:35:00,650
And we could come up another maybe 10mm here.

298
00:35:01,330 –> 00:35:09,260
Now, the big difference you can see is that we’ve got two stepper motors instead of a stepper motor and an idler.

299
00:35:09,740 –> 00:35:13,610
Because as I said to you, when I had the idler on, I was getting very inconsistent

300
00:35:14,220 –> 00:35:22,250
travels. This has fixed that. I’m extremely pleased with the end result now. So all I’ve got to is tidy up my drawings.

301
00:35:23,030 –> 00:35:27,130
And um, well you can have a go at making one for yourself if you want.

302
00:35:27,780 –> 00:35:29,270
I don’t know so much about this.

303
00:35:30,920 –> 00:35:37,610
It may well be that I shall have to supply this at the moment until CloudRay decides whether or not they want to get involved with this project or not.

304
00:35:44,010 –> 00:35:50,400
I mean, technically it’s good news for them because, hey, you might want to buy two stepper motors from them.

305
00:35:51,180 –> 00:36:00,660
These are matched stepper motors, so you wouldn’t be able to use the 0.9 stepper motor that you had off of the X-axis.

Transcript for Let’s Build a K40 Xtreeem DIY Rotary – Pt 2 (Cont…)

306
00:36:01,140 –> 00:36:04,290
So it will require two matched stepper motors.

307
00:36:04,830 –> 00:36:10,410
Because if you look carefully, you’ll see that I’m running both of those cables into here.

308
00:36:10,770 –> 00:36:15,420
So both stepper motors are being fed by this connector here.

309
00:36:15,720 –> 00:36:18,840
I’ve got to go and sort out what’s going wrong with this.

310
00:36:18,840 –> 00:36:22,890
Now it’s two wires and my stupidity.

311
00:36:22,920 –> 00:36:26,100
How difficult can that be to overcome? Probably about as difficult as

312
00:36:26,370 –> 00:36:31,260
sorting out what’s gone wrong here? I think that’s probably in the vendor settings, just direction.

313
00:36:31,470 –> 00:36:38,040
So let me go and check that, shall we? So that’s the great advantage of having a completely separate rotary set

314
00:36:38,370 –> 00:36:48,480
of vendor settings. We can change this however we like and it won’t affect the normal running of the machine. Vendor settings, read.

315
00:36:50,560 –> 00:36:54,280
Because until I say read, I can’t write it back to the machine.

316
00:36:55,810 –> 00:37:02,560
So Y. Polarity, direction polarity.

317
00:37:03,610 –> 00:37:07,450
Positive. Right.

318
00:37:08,900 –> 00:37:12,290
I’m not going to save it yet until we’ve tested it. So it’s write.

319
00:37:13,630 –> 00:37:17,310
And that’s gone back into the machine. And let’s run the test again.

320
00:37:17,320 –> 00:37:23,410
shall we? We see it’s now doing exactly what we want.

321
00:37:26,050 –> 00:37:30,490
So if I press zero there, let’s see whether or not it responds correctly.

322
00:37:32,320 –> 00:37:37,570
Yes. So it’s now moving away from zero.

323
00:37:42,920 –> 00:37:48,980
And it’s doing exactly what we asked it to do. I set zero there and it’s

324
00:37:50,190 –> 00:37:53,210
moved up and scanned correctly.

325
00:37:53,630 –> 00:37:56,750
Nice dark glass bottle. Let’s see what we can do on this one.

326
00:37:57,320 –> 00:38:01,760
Move the gantry out of the way and we move these into a much closer position.

Transcript for Let’s Build a K40 Xtreeem DIY Rotary – Pt 2 (Cont…)

327
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So we’ve got, one, two, three, three holes.

328
00:38:07,400 –> 00:38:10,730
One, two, three, four holes.

329
00:38:14,590 –> 00:38:18,370
And then these. Well, we should want these in as close as possible, I should think. And raise that

330
00:38:18,910 –> 00:38:22,120
end up until we get a bubble in the middle. Put on the end

331
00:38:22,120 –> 00:38:26,730
stop. It can’t move either way.

332
00:38:27,690 –> 00:38:30,960
There’s a serration on the bottom edge here. That’s what it is, that’s what you can hear.

333
00:38:35,100 –> 00:38:41,220
So we move that across. So we can drop that down to within about seven or eight millimetres of the work,

334
00:38:41,400 –> 00:38:46,860
roughly on the centerline. I’ve wound that right the way forward onto the zero position.

335
00:38:47,940 –> 00:38:53,400
So in fact Y is 235. That’s what it says on the keyboard.

336
00:38:54,090 –> 00:38:59,520
If I press my origin there. We go 400 and 50 power.

337
00:39:10,140 –> 00:39:14,790
Okay. I didn’t set my text on this screen correctly.

338
00:39:15,510 –> 00:39:19,770
So what I should have done is rotated this 180 degrees.

339
00:39:30,520 –> 00:39:33,820
Okay. That’s enough testing just to show you that it all works.

340
00:39:34,090 –> 00:39:40,870
And if you want to do smaller objects, you might be able to get away with a standard lens tube, because that comes quite high.

341
00:39:41,530 –> 00:39:43,780
And then it gives you a lot of adjustment up and down,

342
00:39:44,200 –> 00:39:51,970
and you’ve got a full range of depth from 90 millimetres down to pencils, drumsticks, whatever you want.

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Last updated August 26, 2021

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The information provided by n-Deavor Limited, trading as Laseruser.com (“we,” “us” , or “our”) on (the “Site”) is for general informational purposes only. All information on the Site is provided in good faith, however we make no representation or warranty of any kind, express or implied, regarding the accuracy, adequacy, validity, reliability, availability or completeness of any information on the Site.

UNDER NO CIRCUMSTANCE SHALL WE HAVE ANY LIABILITY TO YOU FOR ANY LOSS OR DAMAGE OF ANY KIND INCURRED AS A RESULT OF THE USE OF THE SITE OR RELIANCE ON ANY INFORMATION PROVIDED ON
THE SITE. YOUR USE OF THE SITE AND YOUR RELIANCE ON ANY INFORMATION ON THE SITE IS SOLELY AT YOUR OWN RISK.

The Site may contain (or you may be sent through the Site) links to other websites or content belonging to or originating from third parties or links to websites and features in banners or other advertising. Such external links are not investigated, monitored, or checked for accuracy, adequacy, validity, reliability, availability or completeness by us.

WE DO NOT WARRANT, ENDORSE, GUARANTEE, OR ASSUME RESPONSIBILITY FOR THE ACCURACY OR RELIABILITY OF ANY INFORMATION OFFERED BY THIRD-PARTY WEBSITES LINKED THROUGH THE SITE OR ANY WEBSITE OR FEATURE LINKED IN ANY BANNER OR OTHER ADVERTISING.
WE WILL NOT BE A PARTY TO OR IN ANY WAY BE RESPONSIBLE FOR MONITORING ANY TRANSACTION BETWEEN YOU AND THIRD-PARTY PROVIDERS OF PRODUCTS OR SERVICES.

AFFILIATES DISCLAIMER

The Site may contain links to affiliate websites, and we receive an affiliate commission for any purchases made by you on the affiliate website using such links. Our affiliates include the following:

  • makeCNC who provide Downloadable Patterns, Software, Hardware and other content for Laser Cutters, CNC Routers, Plasma, WaterJets, CNC Milling Machines, and other Robotic Tools. They also provide Pattern Files in PDF format for Scroll Saw Users. They are known for their Friendly and Efficient Customer Service and have a comprehensive back catalogue as well as continually providing New Patterns and Content.
  • Cloudray Laser: a world-leading laser parts and solutions provider, has established a whole series of laser product lines, range from CO2 engraving & cutting machine parts, fiber cutting machine parts and laser marking machine parts.
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